Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers 

 

PO BOX 82     TOWNSEND, TN  37882               800-541-5994    865-448-6350    

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Sharpening-How We Do It!


 

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Solve those sharpening woes!  Less time sharpening and more time for carving.  The buffing wheel is made of several open layers o stiff cotton.  The open layers provide more surface area for heat dissipation.  Also, the flexing action of the cloth helps prevent "rounding" which tends to occur with leather, paper, felt and other solid wheels including the sewn cloth ones.  Use the wheel on a grinder and add a compound for the best honing or polishing results.  We use a bench grinder with  3450 rpm speed.  That speed is okay because of the heat reduction in the design of the wheel.  Be sure to lock the wheel so that it doesn't wobble.  It is easy to use and worry free.  The arbor is 1/2".  We have 2 sizes at the same price because the factory charges us the same for both sizes.  Either size works equally as well.  Remember,  do not re-sharpen your tools unless you break or chip one of them.  Only strop them on this wonderful wheel.  NOT RECOMMENDED FOR AN ELECTRIC DRILL.

This is a side view of the buffing wheel.

STROPPING INSTRUCTIONS

The compound we use has a wax in it to allow it to stick to the wheel.  When this wheel is new is stiff and the compound won't stick as well.  After a buffing a few times the compound will stick better.  When the wheel gets really soft it is time to get a new wheel.  You will notice that the wheel turns black as you use it.  This the wax melting and minute metal particles from the tool.  Just wipe your tool off when finished.

Hold any tool you are buffing with both hands. Do not turn the edge of the tool into the wheel.  My wheel turns toward me as I strop.  I prefer this rotation.  I hold a tool about at the 4:00 o'clock or 8:00 position if the wheel was a clock face.  I slide a knife (both sides)  across the front of the wheel with all of the bevel touching the wheel. The bevel extends the width of the blade for most carving knives.  I rotate a gouge at the same position making sure all of the bevel is buffed.  I hold the gouge straight up and 'bump' the inside of it against the edge of the wheel.  This removes any burs from the inside.  I treat a v-tool like it is 2 chisels and then rotate it in the wheel to get the point buffed.

You will add more compound to the wheel when it is new.   After the wheel is 'loaded' don't add anymore except when it appears that  buffing is not doing the same good job.

 

ITEM
ITEM #
PRICE
6" Buffing Wheel SH001 $10.50 ea   Add Item to shopping Cart
8" Buffing Wheel SH002 $10.50 ea   Add Item to shopping Cart

 

BUFFING COMPOUND

We have used the green and white compounds for years to put a razor edge on all of our tools. Lately I have started using the gold and I sure like it better. It seems to hone better and puts a nicer polish on the tool.

Which ever compound you choose just charge up the buffing wheel and buff.  Once the wheel is charged you won't need much after that unless you are honing a newly sharpened tool.  The green, white or gold compounds are best for keeping an edge on a blade while the coarser compounds (black, grey, brown, red, etc) are generally used when making tools or when you have a stubborn edge.

Choose large bar or smaller bar.

 

Description
ITEM #
PRICE
1 lb.  Bar Buffing Green Compound SH012 $6.00 ea   Add Item to shopping Cart
1 lb.  Bar Buffing White Compound SH117 $6.00 Add Item to shopping Cart
7 oz Bar Gold Compound SH128 $3.50 Add Item to shopping Cart

 


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