Solve those sharpening woes! Less time sharpening and more time for
carving. The buffing wheel is made of several open layers o stiff
cotton. The open layers provide more surface area for heat
dissipation. Also, the flexing action of the cloth helps prevent
"rounding" which tends to occur with leather, paper, felt and other solid
wheels including the sewn cloth ones. Use the wheel on a grinder and
add a compound for the best honing or polishing results. We
use a bench grinder with 3450 rpm speed. That speed is okay because
of the heat reduction in the design of the wheel. Be sure to lock the
wheel so that it doesn't wobble. It is easy to use and worry free.
The arbor is 1/2". We have 2 sizes at the same price because the
factory charges us the same for both sizes. Either size works equally
as well. Remember, do not re-sharpen your tools unless you break
or chip one of them. Only strop them on this wonderful wheel.
NOT RECOMMENDED FOR AN ELECTRIC DRILL.
This
is a side view of the buffing wheel.
STROPPING INSTRUCTIONS
The compound we use has a
wax in it to allow it to stick to the wheel. When this wheel
is new is stiff and the compound won't stick as well. After a
buffing a few times the compound will stick better. When the
wheel gets really soft it is time to get a new wheel. You will
notice that the wheel turns black as you use it. This the wax
melting and minute metal particles from the tool. Just wipe
your tool off when finished.
Hold any tool you are
buffing with both hands. Do not turn the edge of the tool into the
wheel. My wheel turns toward me as I strop. I prefer
this rotation. I hold a tool about at the 4:00 o'clock or 8:00
position if the wheel was a clock face. I slide a knife (both
sides) across the front of the wheel with all of the bevel
touching the wheel. The bevel extends the width of the blade for
most carving knives. I rotate a gouge at the same position
making sure all of the bevel is buffed. I hold the gouge
straight up and 'bump' the inside of it against the edge of the
wheel. This removes any burs from the inside. I treat a
v-tool like it is 2 chisels and then rotate it in the wheel to get
the point buffed.
You will add more compound to the wheel when it is new.
After the wheel is 'loaded' don't add anymore except when it appears
that buffing is not doing the same good job.